Boudin Blanc / Oyster / Porcini

今橋 英明
Restaurant L’aube
[ My Mother’s Lunch Boxes ] When I was in a little league baseball team, my mother worked as a nurse. Despite being busy due to irregular working days and hours, she always prepared a lunch box for me to take to baseball on Sundays. It was never anything fancy, but it has always remained in my memory. Her lunch box repertoire never changed. The most memorable items included fish meat sausages, fried oysters and scrambled eggs. These were packed together into the lunch box, together with a sachet of soy sauce.
I especially liked the taste of the fried fish meat sausages combined with the slightly thick scrambled egg. After some time, I entered the world of cuisine. When I was 26, I had the chance to work in France. To start with, I thought it was important to learn about basic local dishes, and so I studied a variety of them. I discovered the Bordeaux wine-region culture of eating raw oysters with sausages and red wine, and I remember thinking it was just like the lunch boxes my mother made for me. When I became able to construct recipes, I produced my own version of that lunch box from long ago: lightly boiled oysters and boudin blanc sausages with cep mushroom, egg and butter sabayon sauce. Pour on plenty of sauce, and place equal-sized pieces of oyster and sausage into your mouth at the same time. I hope you experience the same feeling of nostalgia and rich flavors that I do.

材 料

[ Serves 40 ]

oyster 40
onion 1
A water
A fresh cream 200 g
A cloves (head part)
B chicken breast 400 g
B pork shoulde 250 g
B pork neck 100 g
C salt 14 g
C pepper 2 g
C thickener (Vidofix) 7 g
egg white 120 g
hog casing
Cep mushrooms (dried) 7 g
beurre fondue 125 g
D whole egg 70 g
D egg yolk 30 g
D salt 2 g

工 程

  1. Step

    <Boudin Blanc>
    Make the boudin blanc. Slice the onion and simmer with A until soft. Strain, removing the moisture, and chop. Combine the meat (minced) from B with C in a food processor, then add the egg white and fresh cream (in that order) and process again. Place the mixture into a bowl, add chopped truffles and the onions mentioned above. Push the mixture into the hog casing. Boil in 80°C water for 30 minutes. Allow to cool, put in vacuum packs and store. When preparing, brown in a frypan and heat in a 120~130°C oven.

  2. Step

    <Cep Flavored Butter Mousse >
    Make the cep butter mousse. Powderise the cep mushrooms in a mixer and combine with the beurre fondue in a pan. Put the lid on and place in a warm place for 1 hour to infuse. Add the mixture to D and blend with a hand blender. Strain and cool. Place in an espuma siphon, and heat in 58°C water.

  3. Step

    <Oysters>
    Shuck the oysters and place them in a pan. Filter the oyster liquid into the pan with a paper filter, up to approx. 70% of the height of the oysters. Cook the oysters slowly over a low heat, pouring the stock over the oysters until they are warm.

  4. Step

    <Serving>
    Cut the boudin blanc and oysters into bite-sized pieces and top with the cep butter mousse.

今橋 英明 今橋 英明

響きあう物語のはじまり。
「L’aube(ローブ)」とは、始まりや夜明け、誕生を表すフランス語です。
自然が創造した美しさと、人が創造した美しさの絶妙なハーモニーを生み出すこと。
《その瞬間にしか存在しない美味しさ》を創りつづけること。
ここから私達の物語が始まる。そんな想いを込めて「L’aube(ローブ)」と名付けました。
生産者のこだわり、その風景、季節の移ろい、日本とフランスの食文化が響き合う、新たな美味しさ、愉しさ、心地よさと、それらが誕生する美しい瞬間をお届けしていきます。

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